After playing around with this idea for a while i finally figured out the trick. This is an old concept used many times in the slot car industry. Using an extra resistor you add to the existing controller resistance and cut down the voltage slightly. Using a bypass switch to bypass the extra resistance allows the full original voltage to reach the car.
In reasearching how others have used this idea i found some mistakes.
Mistake #1: any additional resistance will of course be added to the original controller. this means you can't just use any slot car controller you need to find one with a very low resistance that you can add to. For example if you start with a 90ohm slot car controller then add an additional 15 ohms you now have a controller with 105 ohms at 20 volts this will cause a 8 volt drop in power that is very noticable.
To maintain the same speed what you really want is to find a 75ohm controller then add the 15 ohms on top of the 75 to get back to 90 ohms thus you keep the original resistance and top speed. when the bypass button is pressed.
For TCR the Aurora Speedsteer controller is the perfect controller to turbo charge. the Speed steer controller is 20 ohms. compared to 55 ohms and 75 ohms for other TCR controllers. by adding a 8 ohm resistor inline with the speedsteer controller you are only increasing resistance to 28 ohms and cutting about 4.5 volts of power.
Mistake #2: when you turbo charge using a power resistor you must remember to increase the original voltage by at least the same amount of voltage drop. So if you add a 8 ohm resistor drop and cut power 4 volts then you should make up the 4 volt difference by increasing the power supply from 20 volts to 24 volts. or if you are at 24 volts then ideally you want a 28 volt power supply to make up the difference.
Mistake #3: when wiring the Extra resistance most people solder the connection so the resistor is inline with the original resistor but when the button for the turbo is pressed it simply removes the extra resistance but leaves the primary resistor inline. What you actaully want is to wire the button so ALL resistance is bypassed. When the button is pressed the full 24 or 28volts is sent down to the car this runs the controller at 0 ohms with full power down to the car bypassing the throttle trigger completely.
Here is an example of wiring up the speedsteer controller.
The 8 ohm 10 WATT resistor is wired to add additional resistance to the original 20 Ohm resistor, at all times an additional 8 ohms is added to the throttle.
The Turbo Button is a momentary switch that bypasses the throttle resistance completely. the button is wired from the steering wheel output to the trigger ground at the return spring. When the button is pressed it is like punching the trigger to full throttle giving a ohms resistance of 0
The original power supply was also changed from a Tyco TCR 20 volt tranformer to a 24 volt transformer.
The aurora Speedsteer transformer can be beefed up from 24 to 28 volts as well. when driving around normally the same original voltage level is used. when the turbo button is hit the extra 4.5 volts that is being held back is fully released to the car.
Most Shunt buttons are wired this way. This turbo button bypasses the shunt and reduces total ohms however you still have additional resistance of the primary resistor and wiring and throttle position.
Here is a better way: The power shunt remains inline with the primary resistor, but now the turbo button completely bypasses the the resistors and acts as a full on/off switch. this allows full voltage to reach the car at the touch of a button, which is the whole point of the turbo button you need instant power.
The diagram shows a traditional slot car controller but it is easy to adapt this to TCR controllers the only difference is the inline Diode switch used for left and right function.
you can see how this is easy to adapt to almost any slotless or Slotted car. the only system that cannot use this system is the AFX Ultra 5 slotless system. The ultra 5 requires a different system to achieve a turbo effect.
remember to use a low primary resistor because you are adding the shunt ohms to the original resistor. for a slot car the tolerance can be much larger you can have a 20 ohm shunt. for slotless the tolerance is much tighter 4 volts can make the difference from lane changing to lane stalling. a 20 ohm primary resistor plus 8 ohms for the shunt keeps the voltage high enough to lane change and still have a good turbo effect.
Also remember to increase the power supply voltage to compensate for the power shunt drop. For a traditional Slotless system you may have a 20 volt power supply increase it to 24 volts with the power shunt/turbo button. The shunt will hold back the extra voltage until the button is pressed.
The electronic super booster can become damaged by short circuits on the track, it is expensive to build and requires a higher level of electronics skill.
the turbo charge using a power resistor shunt is cheap and simple and will not become damaged by short circuits. you have more flexability with tuning and voltage. You can also use a Jam car without problems.
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